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The General Motors 3800 Series II 3.8L V6 engine is one of the most reliable motors ever manufactured with many of them easily reaching over 250,000 miles. To keep your Grand Prix running for years to come, the best thing you can do is regularly change the oil. I prefer to change the oil every 5,000 miles with 4.5 U.S. Quarts of Mobil 1 10W-30 oil and use a Purolator oil filter.
One of the most common problems that occur with the Pontiac Grand Prix and other GM vehicles is a burnt out window motor or a broken regulator. The driver's window gets the most use and is usually the first to fail. A replacement power window motor and regulator assembly can be purchased online for about $40 to $60. Only a few simple tools and about an hour are needed to replace one. The GTP trim level of the Pontiac Grand Prix is equipped with the L67 version of the GM 3800 Series II engine with an Eaton M90 supercharger. It is advisable to inspect the oil level and occasionally change the supercharger's oil supply with two 4 ounce bottles of GM Supercharger Oil (part # 12345982). Another common issue with the 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix and other GM W-Body vehicles is wheel bearings that wear out and create excessive noise.
If the ABS or TCS OFF warning lights are illuminated on your vehicle's dash panel, the ABS wheels sensors integrated in the wheel hub bearings may have failed. Since I installed two power hungry amplifiers and two 10' subwoofers in the trunk of my Grand Prix, I expected that the original alternator wouldn't last long under the demand. When it finally gave out after years of reliable use, I replaced it with a remanufactured Bosch ProStart alternator for $140. To prevent reduced fuel economy and engine damage, it's important to check and/or replace the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve regularly.
A new PCV valve for the GM 3800 Series II engine only costs about $3.00 and takes less than 15 minutes to change. A faulty WSS (wheel speed sensor) or rubbed ABS wire harness may cause the ABS, TCS OFF and SES lights to illuminate on the vehicle's gauge panel. In my car's case, a new solved the problem and re-enabled the ABS (anti-lock braking system). To date, I've replaced 3 of the 4 original power window motor and regulator assemblies in my 2001 GM Pontiac Grand Prix. Replacing one of the rear window motor and regulator assemblies is very similar to the procedure for the front driver or passenger door. If you can hear the power steering pump whining or groaning when turning the wheel of your Pontiac Grand Prix, you may need to top off the power steering fluid. My car's power steering system must have developed a small leak since I've had to top off the fluid every 6 to 8 months.
The use of 'stop leak' power steering fluid has seemed to finally resolve the problem. When the front brake pads started squealing on my '01 Grand Prix, I knew it was time to replace them. For the new brake pads, I chose Satisfied Pro Ceramic VS pads for about $47. I also purchased brake parts cleaner spray and CRC disc brake quiet gel. After 90,000 miles, it was time to finally replace the rear brake pads which generally last twice as long as the front brake pads. I chose the same Satisfied Pro Ceramic VS pads that I put on the front brakes for the rear brakes. If your brake pedal feels mushy or your brakes experience 'fade' after spirited driving, you may need to flush out the old brake fluid.
All that is needed for this procedure is an assistant, some new brake fluid, and a few basic hand tools. Another common problem with older Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles is condensation or water droplets appearing inside the headlight or tail light assemblies. The issue can be resolved by sealing up any possible entry point for rain water or humidity with Teflon plumber's tape or silicone sealant. Over time the supercharger belt can become worn and/or stretched out depending on how aggressively you drive your GTP. If you decide to replace the supercharger pulley with a smaller one for more boost, you'll also need to change out the OEM belt for a slightly smaller belt for a secure fit. One day while charging up a highway on-ramp, I heard half of my serpentine belt fly apart and rattle around in the engine bay.
1999 Pontiac Grand Prix
Luckily the other half of the belt held on long enough for me to buy a new one at an auto parts store and get the car back home. If you hear any squeaks or rattles coming from the passenger side of your GM 3800 Series II engine, you may need to replace a worn out idler or tensioner pulley. My idler and tensioner pulleys didn't spin as easily as I would have liked, so I replaced them at the same time as the serpentine and supercharger belts. Got a burnt out brake light / parking, reverse or turn signal light bulb in your 1997 to 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix? It only takes a few minutes to swap out the old bulb for a new one and no tools are needed. To replace the high beam, low beam or turn signal light bulbs in the headlight assembly of a 97-03 Grand Prix requires a 10mm socket or wrench. After removing the two 10mm sockets, you can easily access any of the bulbs in the headlight assembly.
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Replacing a burnt out third brake light bulb in a Pontiac Grand Prix is one of the easiest procedures and can help keep you from being rear ended by another vehicle. To access either one of the overhead map light bulbs requires removing a few screws and lowering the entire overhead console. Tired of replacing power window motors & regulator assemblies in your GM vehicle? Get some silicon spray lubricant or graphite powder lubricant and apply it to the power window tracks inside the doors to allow the windows to move with ease.
Another possible explanation for intermittently functioning power windows in a GM vehicle is dirty copper contacts inside the window switches. Over time, carbon build up can prevent power from flowing efficiently through the switch to the power window motor. After about eight years of use, one of my fog light bulbs burst. I bought a set of two new fog light bulbs on eBay for just a few bucks. No tools are necessary to replace a fog light bulb, but removing the assembly can make it an easier job. Has the key fob remote control for your GM vehicle stopped working reliably or does it only work a foot away from the car?
Replacing the battery is an easy job and a 5 pack of new batteries can be bought online for just a dollar or two. Near the end of a long drive on a hot South Florida summer day, my passenger noticed some water on the floorboard of the car. The problem ended up being a clogged HVAC system condensate drain pipe rubber elbow. The lower door molding trim piece on my driver's door started to fall off after nearly 10 years of opening and closing the door several times a day. I bought some 3M Super Strong Molding Tape to reattach it.
Preparing the surface is the most important part of this procedure. Driving on the highway in heavy traffic and long term exposure to the sun can cause your car's headlights to become pitted, hazy and yellowed. Rather than replace the headlight assemblies, try polishing them with a product such as the Meguiar's Headlight Restoration buffing kit. I've been using Zaino Bros car detailing products on my '01 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP since day 1 in August 2001. The car's paint still looks practically showroom fresh after 10 long years under the Florida sun except for a few dings and scratches. I attribute a lot of that longevity to my consistent use of Zaino products with UV protection properties. Rather than throwing away that disposable engine air filter and buying a new one, invest in a re-usable K&N Air Filter with a million mile guarantee.
You can either purchase one that fits right into the stock air box or ditch it for a 9' open cone filter that will slightly boost your engine's HP. If the 'Low Coolant' indicator light is flashing on the dashboard of your GM 3800 Series II 3.8L V6 engine equipped vehicle, you may need to clean, replace or just disconnect the coolant level sensor to fix the problem. One of the most neglected areas of vehicle maintenance is the cooling system. Many newer vehicles have coolant or 'antifreeze' that the manufacturers claim doesn't need to be changed for as many as 10 years or 100,000 miles. To help keep the cooling system in your Pontiac Grand Prix working efficiently, I'd recommend draining and filling the radiator with a fresh mixture of 50% coolant and 50% distilled water every few years.
This guide was specifically written to assist owners of the 6th generation (1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003) GM Pontiac Grand Prix SE / GT / GTP in bleeding the brake lines. Owners of other General Motors automobiles may also find these instructions useful since the procedure is very similar. Some of the other GM vehicles with a similar brake fluid flush process include the Pontiac Grand Am, Trans-Am, Torrent, Aztek, Sunfire, Vibe, Bonneville, Montana, G5, G6, G8, Solstice, Firebird, GTO, Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, Cobalt, Malibu, Impala, Saturn Sky, Ion, Astra, Aura, Vue, Buick LeSabre, Regal, Grand National, Lucerne, Centruy, Park Avenue, Cadillac Catera, DeVille, Eldorado, Seville, Escalade, STS, DTS, and CTS. My 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP is about to hit the 91,000 miles mark on the odometer. The rear brake pads are the originals and the front brake pads were replaced during the 60,000 mile service. Recently I had noticed some grinding noises and brake fade (soft brake pedal) during stop and go traffic. I decided to replace the brake pads on all four wheels and bleed the brake lines.
This guide is only for bleeding the brake lines, if you need to change the pads, visit the or the. Since brake fluid can easily eat automotive paint, my first step was to protect the bodywork with large plastic garbage bags attached with painter's tape. I've been painstakingly washing and waxing my car for 8 years. I didn't want to take any chances.
To flush the brake lines with fresh new brake fluid, we'll be pumping it out at each wheel and constantly refilling the master brake cylinder. So it's makes sense to first remove as much of the polluted black fluid from the master reservoir as possible before beginning. To remove the old fluid from the master brake cylinder, I used a sprayer bottle pump and a plastic water bottle. You could also go into the kitchen and borrow a turkey baster (but don't ever use it for food preparation again). It is recommended that you begin bleeding the brakes lines at the wheel farthest from the master brake cylinder and then working your way towards the brake cylinder. On the 1997-2003 Grand Prix, that would be rear passenger wheel first, then the driver side rear wheel, passenger side front wheel and finally the driver side front wheel. I had already completed replacing the rear brake pads so I refilled the master brake cylinder up to the 'MAX' line with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
You can use either or fluid which are both glycol based. Do not use DOT 5 brake fluid, which is silicon based and is not compatible with the 97-03 Grand Prix braking system. Next I removed the plastic lug nut caps with a and loosened the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Then I raised the side of the car with the and replaced it with a. The lug nuts can be quickly spun off with a 19mm socket and then the wheel can be removed to reveal the wheel hub, brake rotor and brake caliper. The brake line bleeder valve is located on the rear of the brake caliper.
It is covered by a small rubber cap. Before you bring out your assistant who will be pumping the brake pedal, you should test the bleeder valves to make sure they can be opened. I had some trouble at first getting them to turn. I used a rubber mallet to tap on the caliper and lightly tap on the bleeder screw. Then I used a ratcheting wrench and a socket to crack open the valves. Once I verified that the bleeder valves at each rear brake caliper could be easily opened, I called out my assistant to the garage. To successfully and safely bleed the brake lines, you'll need a large bottle of new or 4 brake fluid, a 10mm wrench, some plastic tubing and a catch container for the old brake fluid such as a plastic bottle.
I had my assistant sit in the driver's seat and put her foot on the brake pedal. Then I topped off the master brake cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid. I left the master cylinder cap unscrewed so that the new fluid could easily flow from the master cylinder to the bleeder valves. If you screw the cap on, a vacuum will form in the brake system and air could be sucked in from the bleeder screws. We'll also be constantly refilling the master cylinder with more brake fluid so it's just easier to leave it unscrewed. I asked my assistant to pump the brake pedal several times until it felt firm. Then with the plastic tube securely on the bleeder valve's opening, I cracked open the valve about a quarter turn.
As old brake fluid rushed out of the valve and into the tube, my assistant pressed on the brake pedal until it sunk almost down to the floor. I asked her to only press the pedal about 2/3 to 3/4 down to the floor to prevent the master cylinder from being damaged by bottoming out or coming in contact with accumulated sediment. One way to prevent the brake pedal from bottoming out is to place a small block of wood between the pedal and the floor mat.
It's important that the person assisting does not release the brake pedal until the bleeder screw has been closed. If the pedal is raised with the bleeder screw still open, old fluid and possibly air will be sucked back into the system negating the whole purpose of the procedure. When the pedal would reach the floor, I had my assistant call out 'floor' and then I would say 'closed' to indicate that it was safe to slowly release the brake pedal. The farther you turn open the bleeder screw, the faster the fluid leaves the bleeder nipple. Eventually you'll get into a rhythm where the assistant pushes the pedal to the floor just as you're closing the bleeder valve. Then you can reset and repeat the action.
Don't forget to check the master brake cylinder often and refill it with new brake fluid to the 'MAX' line. It's very important that the level in the cylinder does not drop so low that air is introduced into the system, which again would defeat the entire point of bleeding the brake lines in the first place. We kept on repeating the steps until the brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve looked relatively clear. As you can see above, the first bottle is dark black, the second bottle is slightly lighter and the fluid in the third bottle is much clearer.
Repair manual for 1999 ford ranger. It's obvious that the automotive shop that performed my 60,000 mile service just replaced the front pads and did not flush the brake fluid. I used so much new brake fluid flushing the lines that I had to go buy another bottle to top off the master brake cylinder when I was finished. As I completed each caliper, I tightened down the bleeder screw with a 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench and replaced the rubber cap.
Headlights For 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
Then I replaced the wheel, tightened the lug nuts and put the plastic lug nut caps back on. Before I took the car for a test drive, I topped off the brake fluid in the master cylinder to the 'MAX' line and pumped the brake pedal a few times until it was firm. I broke in the new brake pads with about 10 near-stops from 45-35 mph down to 5-15 mph. The brakes felt great with no apparent fading (soft pedal) even after the last near stop. If you're brake pedal feels spongy, springy or soft after bleeding the brake lines, you may need to repeat the process to remove any trapped air bubbles or contaminated brake fluid. For more, visit the following links:, and the.
Bodyguard 545 epidural pump service manual. For more, check out all of my. If you found this guide to be helpful, please consider making a small donation by clicking on the PayPal.com 'Donate' button located to the right of this paragraph. (Note: I am not a registered charity. Donations are not tax deductible.) Please help support this website by shopping.
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix Interior
Repairing,maintaining,troubleshooting your Pontiac Grand Prix can be a snap with a manual by page,which dedicated to offer Pontiac Grand Prix Owners available Factory Bullen,Service,Workshop,Electrical Wiring diagrams schematics,OEM (original equipment manufacturer) Technical Service Bulletin and Recalls,Booklets and TSB’s,tutorials,instructions,Manufacturers Specifications,parts list number,Technical informations,to help Pontiac Grand Prix drivers quickly diagnose,repair,schedule routine maintenance,service your car,fast get the job done right. Pontiac Manuals is powered by and 3.5. Disclosure: has financial relationships with some affiliate links to products,services mentioned here,which enables us to offset the cost of maintenance and to keep this site free for everyone to use. May receive the commission if consumers choose to use some of the links located throughout the content on this site and generate sales for the said links.We thank you for supporting this site. All manufacturers logos,and marques,all other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Does not store or upload any files on its server. It just links to files (like Google) which is available on the internet.
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