WINNING IS EVERYTHING SID World Cup has one focus—winning XC performance. The chassis and internals have been specifically engineered for 100 millimeters of travel. No compromises. SID now features our highly acclaimed Charger Damper™, optimized for the hard-pedaling needs of dedicated competitors.
Torque Caps provide incredibly accurate steering. SID is highly tunable.
It’s lightweight. It has no excuses. Because winning is everything. BOOST™ With revolutionary advancements in bicycle componentry, like SRAM’s XX1, X01 and X1 drivetrains, mountain bike designers have been given almost limitless freedom to focus solely on the performance of the bike.
Each advancement demands that the entire package works flawlessly. Aggressive trail and enduro riders have been increasingly enjoying the benefits of larger wheels, but many still view 27.5' and 29' wheels as a possible weak link.
Owners Manual Dell Computer
Which is why SRAM has developed an open standard with Boost ™ compatible components for SRAM drivetrain, hubs and RockShox forks. Bottomless Tokens Bottomless Tokens allow riders to easily custom tune their RockShox fork’s air-spring performance to best match their own riding style and suspension preference. Adding the easy-to-install Bottomless Tokens changes the air-spring curve to resist bottom-out after a big hit, giving aggressive riders the power to attack the trail harder.
Removing Bottomless Tokens makes the air-spring curve more linear, enhancing suspension feel for certain types of terrain or trail condition and ensuring riders who are less front-end aggressive benefit from 100 percent of their fork’s travel. Black bottomless tokens are compatible with the following Solo Air forks: RS-1 SID, Reba, Bluto, Revelation. Grey bottomless tokens are compatible with the following Solo Air forks: Pike, Lyrik, Yari, Pike DJ, BoXXer. Dark red bottomless tokens are compatible with the following Dual Position Air forks: Pike, Lyrik, Yari. Charger 2 Damper The evolution of the acclaimed Charger, RockShox’s most advanced damper, brings a whole new level of performance and refinement for each intended use.
Related: Steer Loader Technical Manual TM1374 GENERAL INFORMATION ENGINE FUEL AND AIR SYSTEM ELECTRICAL POWER TRAIN STEERING AND BRAKES HYDRAULICS SPECIFICATIONS/OPERATIONAL CHECKOUT PROCEDURE ENGINE/FUEL SYSTEM OPERATION 24.95 USD Safety Specifications and Information Engine (Diesel) Electrical Power train (Chain case and Axles) Power train (Hydrostatic) Steering Brakes Hydraulics Miscellaneous Language:English Format:Pdf Tags: John Deere 260 270 Skid Steer Loader Technical Manual, John Deere 260 270 Skid Steer Loader Comments. Guess brand logos levels 260 -270.
The new damper designs provides a wider range of low speed compression adjustment in the Open mode, with a more usable Pedal setting that excels on rolling trails. The Firm setting on Pike and Lyrik has be re-tuned, and remote options with OneLoc provide on-the-fly access to the Firm mode and are an excellent match with RockShox Deluxe, Super Deluxe and Super Deluxe Coil remote rear shocks. Maxle Ultimate Basic things like axles are often the easiest to overlook. Put one hand on the Maxle Ultimate, though, and you’ll be glad we paid serious attention to the finer details.
Because one hand is all it takes to remove or install the Maxle Ultimate. And lever-placement personalization is accomplished completely without the use of tools. Available for both front and rear, Maxle Ultimate is the easiest-to-operate axle system in the world. No tools, no worries, so you can concentrate on the trail ahead. Motion Control DNA Who doesn’t want more? As a mountain biker, more might mean more rocks, roots, and descents.
More also could mean switchbacks, single tracks and steep ascents. The various configurations of Mission Control DNA were designed for those who want more out of their ride, and need more out of their suspension. For the different riding styles there are four models of Motion Control DNA with Dual Flow rebound (exclusively available in SID and Revelation): XX, RCT3, RTL and RL. XX - Designed for riders looking for more efficiency. The XX Motion Control DNA damper features RockShox’s XLoc hydraulic remote lockout for the lightest, most ergonomic go-fast solution. RCT3 – Designed for riders looking for more bump gobbling performance. The new RCT3 damper features three distinct knob positions – Open, Threshold and Lock.
The rider is able to quickly and easily access these three modes to manipulate damping performance for specific terrain:. Open for bump-gobbling performance. Threshold for efficiency and moderate bump compliance. Lock for ultimate pedaling efficiency In addition to its three distinct modes, RCT3 features an independent adjustment of low speed compression. RLT – Designed for riders who are looking for more stable ride. Featuring the adjustments of Motion Control – compression-to-lock with adjustable threshold updated with a Motion Control DNA spring tube and refined Dual Flow rebound.
RL – For riders looking for a more simple approach to suspension set up. The Motion Control DNA spring tube and refined Dual Flow rebound mated to compression-to-lock adjustability with a factory set threshold.
I just came off a Scalpel and I am now on a 2015 Epic. I need some tuning advice for all you Specialized Epic owners in here. The bike has an amazing reputation, top results at all levels, and obviously a huge following. So that is why I have been a bit frustrated that I have not gotten it dialed in myself. I have found with the Brian dialed up, especially on the fork, the bike climbs great, but rides significantly worse everywhere else.
I was hoping that with the Brian dialed up, once the fork hits something and 'opens' I would get similar performance to when the Brian is turned off. Maybe my expectations are too high. I feel like I want the BRian off on the descents and on for the uphills, which is exactly what it should be doing on it's own.
I have tried to play around with turning it, running the same trails back to back to see how it is working for me and paying attention to the differences, but so far I have not found the right balance. I am 175 pounds, I ride cross country type trails, I am not hard on my equipment, I like a bike that climbs well, and I live in Colorado.
So if anyone has some tips on turning the Brain, or dialing it in, let me know. I did have a friend help with the sag set up, for the fork it was with the brian turned off. And for the rear shock I used the auto sag. I used both of these as starting points and have gone up and down with the air, as well as up and down with the brian.
A little brain platform on the fork is ok and unobtrusive (enough to stop it bobbing riding seated without a noticeable lockout) but high levels of brain platform on the fork tend not to work that well. It makes for a rough unpredictable ride if you have the fork close to full firm. One of the changes that Specialized made a few years ago with the high end brain forks was to move the brain adjustment dial from the bottom of the fork to the top of the fork leg. The reason for this was so that their sponsored racers could adjust the fork's brain platform on the fly while riding. For the rear shock it depends. The problem is that if you don't have any brain platform the rear suspension bobs. On my 2012 Epic (different number of clicks to later shocks) a reasonable compromise for most offroad riding is 2-3 clicks from full firm.
You don't get the full lockout effect for climbing but it gives a smoother ride than full firm. For smooth trails and road use I have the brain on full firm for the best pedalling. If it's going to be fairly rough trails with lots of bumps I have the brain at 4 clicks from full firm. If it's teeth chattering washboard then full open it is with no brain platform at all. Yes, that is exactly what I am saying, 'Are you saying that the fork is nice and 'locked out' on climbs, but not compliant enough on descents?'
I cannot find a happy medium, half the brain is pretty good for climbing and fast/firm trails, but then it really stiffens up the fork on descents, even after the brain is 'open'. I am not sure I could even imagine riding the bike with full Brian on front and rear, maybe in a short track race or a HC. I have noticed the recommended air presser in the fork appears to be way high. I set it up that way as a starting point and immediately dropped the pressure down to get about 30 mm of sag on a 100 mil fork. I even played with going lower on the air pressure, say to get 40 mm of sag, then adding back in the Brain to see if I could get a compromise. It really did not work.
Even thought my bike is a 2015, the Brain adjuster is on the bottom of the fork. I feel like if it was on the top I would not worry about this issue, because then you could use it like a lock out. I also wonder if the best system is just to go with a bike with a front and rear lockout, so you can run it full open or full locked down. 1) Set the fork up with softer Brain settings then the rear.
For example, if you have the rear set at 3/4 firm, set the front a 1/2 firm. 2) Focus on sag instead of pressures based on weight. You should be getting 20-25% sag at both ends. The recommended air pressures might not be accurate to achieve that (but it a good starting point). Setting the front is easy as you are looking for about an inch of sag which the o-ring will help show. The rear is a bit harder because you need to find how much the shock moves to get the 100mm of wheel travel.
I think its around 9-11mm. Use the auto-sag feature on the shock to get you close and fine tune from there. The bikes that have the brain adjuster on the top of the Rock Shox Sid fork are the Epic S-Works and Epic Marathon (2013 and 2014). The lower end Epic Expert and Epic Elite have a Rock Shox Sid brain fork with the adjuster on the bottom of the fork. In terms of setup if you have the fork brain set so it feels 'treacly' when you push down on it (four or more clicks from full firm on an older fork) I thought that was about right. Repair manual for 1999 chrysler 300m.
It's sticky to push down but without that noticeable 'pop' or 'notch' in the travel that you have with higher levels of brain platform. At higher levels of brain platform when you push down on the fork, it doesn't move and then as you push down harder you suddenly break through the brain platform and the fork brain opens up and falls away beneath you. That's where it starts to get unpleasant to ride as you don't know reliably how the fork will react to bumps. If you decide that you dislike the feel of the brain fork enough it's possible to replace the Specialized brain damper with any of the other Rock Shox Sid fork dampers (XX, RCT3, RLT, RL) turning it into a conventional suspension fork.
1) Set the fork up with softer Brain settings then the rear. For example, if you have the rear set at 3/4 firm, set the front a 1/2 firm. 2) Focus on sag instead of pressures based on weight. You should be getting 20-25% sag at both ends. The recommended air pressures might not be accurate to achieve that (but it a good starting point). Setting the front is easy as you are looking for about an inch of sag which the o-ring will help show. The rear is a bit harder because you need to find how much the shock moves to get the 100mm of wheel travel.
I think its around 9-11mm. Use the auto-sag feature on the shock to get you close and fine tune from there.' This' When through the same thing with my Epic.
Then took some time to set it up on shock at a time. Wound up with 95 psi in the fork, rebound 30 out from close and Brain 8 out.
I weight 158lbs and run the bike at 20% sag. Bike is ridding nice, I do every thing on this that I used to do on my Trek EX9 witch had more travel. 2014 Epic Expert Carbon. Just to throw a spanner in the works I'm 140 pounds and unless I run the fork at 95psi (chart starts at 90psi for 140 pounds) it bottoms out with a decent bang on bigger drops and downhill hard braking etc every ride. There is no way I could run it at less than recommended PSI and not keep smashing the stops.
I found exactly the same problem as the OP in that the shock isn't reactive enough over decent bumps or going fast downhill though and its nasty to ride quickly as the brain stops it reacting. So the bike ends up getting deflected even with 29inch wheels, running 27psi. Out of the 12 brain clicks I have to run it 2 off fully soft to get some compliance. Rear auto sag worked fine but once again I am running the brain 1 click off full soft also to get the bike to use some of its suspension over tree roots at speed.
Running the fork softer to fix the ride didn't work either as the brain still stops it from reacting until you hit a bump but then too much travel gets used up ending at the inevitable bottoming out on big hits so.If I ran this bike anywhere near the firm brain setting at both ends I might as well ride a fully rigid bike. Uphill it's fine but I reckon a standard shock with bar mounted lock-out would work better overall like all my previous bikes. At least it is working properly when you want it too.
Overall its a good bike, but I'm disappointed with the Brain forks' performance compared to the 100mm Fox Float I have on my hardtail and the old Reba Race I had previous to that. Still the carbon wheels are worth the extra over the Comp Carbon model anyway so all good there.
Rock Shox SID is a fantastic fork. Light, lots of adjustments, and surprisingly good feel. I originally got it because of how light the fork is and was putting it on a more XC rig. However, I am surprised by the plushness of the travel because previous versions of SIDs that I have owned were not what I would describe as plush and tended to be a little harsher.
The SID 120 seems to really handle a lot more of what I throw at it than I thought it would be able to handle. I paired it with a 110mm travel Specialized Camber trying to make a more XC rig but now I ride it much more like a trail bike because the fork can handle the chop. Solid fork and no leaking or mechanical problems after throwing a lot of tough trails at it. Looks are great with the. Kappa alpha psi membership orientation manual.
I upgraded from a set of Suntour XCM forks to these RockShox SID XX World Cup (Dual Air) forks. Everything else aside, the weight difference is more than just night and day. These RockShox forks are extremely light!
And, of course, going from an entry level coil fork to a (whatever range these are) quality air fork is enough to make you giggle. Having a remote lockout is a very nice touch. Much better than reaching down to lock out or release the forks during a ride. Everyone has their preferences, but if you get a chance, pick these up.
Tool Owners Manual
![2018 2018](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123752311/473157401.jpg)
The build quality, the fit and finish, it's all there. I love these forks. I mean, if I could marry them, I would. (I got divorced once and remarried and I'm head over heels for my wife. There's NO WAY I'd leave her for these forks. My ex-wife, yes, I'd.
Honda Owners Manual
The lowers are similar to any other cartridge SID. The RS-SID cartridge I haven't been into.
But I have been into the Specialized S120 brain cartridge. It's complex, but not too bad. Brass-mass inertia valve, internal floating piston which is charged via a needle in the bottom. The air spring is contained in the top and the negative spring is set at different distances during assembly depending on the rider weight. The RS version of the same cartridge doesn't have the integrated air spring which the Specialized versions did.
I had a 29' RS SID brain shock on the bench last week. But the cartridge didn't get opened. Customer was in a hurry and it was still working fine. I laugh at 'factory sealed'.